Pomegranates hang in ruby orbs over whitewashed walls . They guard centuries-old gardens brimming with roses flaunting bold colors—bruised purple, sungold, blood red.  The fountains and pools in every courtyard become sound-splashing 3-D paintings. Each garden is perfection.

Granada means pomegranate. And pomegranates are everywhere.

A town of elegant walking streets crowded with Granadans heading to work in well-cut suits, pushing strollers in heels, or sporting fedoras as they head off to meet amigos at tapas bars. The marbled town wraps around the base of the hills crowned by the Alhambra— Spain’s pièce de résistance. The reason I am here.

The march up to the top of the plateau where it perches like a a golden eagle peering down at the city leaves me breathless—and then the gardens knock me over. Jewel-like flowers surround the pools and fountains.  Pomegranates dangle like Christmas ornaments from trees lining the pathways. The Moorish architecture pops the eyes with its intricacy of form and beauty. Bragging aromatic roses and gnarled-trunk orange trees blanketed in blossoms thicken the air.

The bees’ hum drowns out the tour guide’s monologue. He cannot stop sneezing from the potent aroma of blossoms in heat. The Alhambra intoxicates—inebriates. The bees buzz and zoom, greedy for pollen. It hangs heavy on their legs. They weave around in the air like drunken pilots, like over-sexed fat little pashas who have taken flight in their yellow silk harem pants. They are more interesting than the guide, who is sniffling and wiping his tearing eyes.

I’m laughing. It is all too delightful. So Arabian Nights.

I wish I’d brought an over-ladened picnic basket filled with Iberian ham and Manchego cheese, figs and a bottle of sparkling, Grenadine-tinted rosé. I want to stay here for a long, long time— as long as forever. The stark sunlight diminishes, passing over the medieval face of the Alhambra. It blushes as blazing white transitions to peach, then fades to pearl.

To me Granada now means “dreamy place of drunken bees and richly perfumed air, flaunting ruby-red fruits.”

Ya gotta go!

HERE’S HOW:

ALHAMBRA:If you go to Spain you will more than likely go to Granada to visit the Alhambra. This UNESCO World Heritage site is especially important because it is one of the few palaces to have survived from medieval Islamic times. 

Book tour tickets on the government site and opt for the guided tour. Tickets need to be reserved online ahead of time for it is quite popular. https://www.alhambra.org/en/

LODGING:I stayed in Esther’s perfect Moorish-style Airbnb decorated in rich azure blues. It was within walking distance of the Alhambra and cost $60/night. https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/16167874

I did not stay at the Hotel America but will in the future because it is right next to the Alhambra on the plateau. It appears to be charming and affordable at around $100/night. Pricier than the Airbnb but I’d never have to leave the magic of the Alhambra. https://www.hotelamericagranada.com/en/rooms/

ACTIVITIES:Also on the same website as the Alhambra, I booked a visit to a hammam, also known as an Arab bath, for a massage and steam bath. It was divine and very close to my apartment. https://www.alhambra.org/en/

Pancho Tours offers excellent FREE city walking tours (remember to tip the guide generously). I also took their free walking tour in Cadiz and highly recommend this company. https://www.panchotours.com/granada-free-tour

I love anything gypsy, so visiting the gypsy caves perched in the hillside above the city was a must. I took a public bus to Sacromonte and wandered on the narrow paths leading past the caves where gypsies still live and caverns that house flamenco clubs. The museum was worth a visit. Walk back to town past the cave houses carved into the chalky hillside. Magenta bougainvillea bursting over the walls adds splashes of color, and the city view is outstanding. http://www.lovegranada.com/museums/sacromonte/

EATS:On my way down the hill from Sacromonte into Albaicín —the Arab Quarter—I discovered El Trillo the perfect gourmet repast in a garden with divine Mediterranean cuisine. Salmorejo soup adorned with beetroot, avocado and pomegranate seeds, Pork cheeks in scrumptious sherry gravy, and a glass of Tempranillo—transport me back there NOW! http://www.restaurante-eltrillo.com/

Restaurante Oliver was so good I ate there twice. The endive-Roquefort salad and giant grilled prawns were DELICIOUS! https://restauranteoliver.com