I wrote this a few days ago while exploring North Beach with Don George and a pack of travel writers. Don was the Travel Editor at the San Francisco Chronicle. He launched my travel writing career 37 years ago by publishing my story SPIRITUAL GRACE UNDER A BLUE-BLACK BALINESE SKY on the cover of the Travel Section. I wanted a “Don hit” so signed up for his workshop. The adventure began at Book Passage in Marin County and from there a ferry ride to The City. It was a wonderful day wandering with “new eyes” as Don requested. In my exploration I discovered a boutique hotel in the heart of North Beach. The Hotel Boheme is a great discovery if you are looking for reasonably price and exotic lodging in our fair city.
Hotel Bohème
My feet were tired. A full day wandering from the San Francisco Ferry Terminal through back alleys craning my neck taking in the carved glass angles of sky scrapers. My nose like a salivating dog sniffing every restaurant and deli doorway. Hungering for truffle ravioli, arugula tossed in virgin olive oil, and a bold red Barolo. North Beach is a warren of cracked doorways, Gold Rush brick buildings still standing after a barrage of disasters, bars and bakeries. Cannoli and pizza.
Why not spend the night? I could wear this same outfit tomorrow. Maybe fork out for a toothbrush. Pretend I’m far away from home… why not?
Right across Columbus Avenue the hotel sign was small. Almost handwritten. I dodged the self-driving cars and rang the buzzer. The door clicked open and a stairway dressed in moss green carpeting climbed upward to a softly-lit hallway. “Welcome to the Hotel Bohème!” The handsome man at the end of the hallway greeted me in a warm honey voice. Cozy, quiet,clean. Not a sleazy boarding house tucked between the nearby strip clubs.
Nick introduced himself. “I’m the manager. This is where Lawrence Ferlinghetti and Allan Ginsberg hid out. Steeped in Beat Era history. We serve sherry at the bar to our guests. Talk tales. Where are you from?“
“Across the Bridge in Marin County.”
He looks surprised. “Why are you inquiring about a room if you live 45 minutes from here?”
“Really only 30 minutes. I just got struck by the desire to eat pasta and do more wandering in North Beach tonight. Listen to some music. Drink some wine. How much is a room?”
“Number 6 is available. Ginsberg’s haunt. For locals—-$125 a night.”
Hotel Bohème * 444 Columbus Ave., San Francisco * 415-433-9111
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